![]() ![]() Repeat this until you have normal feeling and no whine. This means you will have to turn off the car and wait. SO you will have to stop and let the fluid settle and release the air it trapped. PS fluid will trap air bubbles if its agitated. You can turn the wheel with car on from lock to lock slowly to aid the process, but if the pump is running, then the air will eventually make its way out. If the tank is almost empty, just add a small amount to cover the intake tube. ![]() Open the cap of the PS tank and use a flashlight to see how much fluid is in the tank with the car on. But to be clear, you dont have to do it this way, you can just let the air work itself out of the system.Īll you need to do is reconnect it all, and then start the car. Let the PS fluid settle and repeat.Īny suggestion on how to get the line "air tight" with a syringe? Unless it's like a 1L syringe wouldn't you have to remove it to expel the air you get through the whole process?my guess is clear tubing and a cap on either end of the open line. Slowly work the wheel back and forth to work the remaining air out of the system. Once you have do this, check to make sure you have a reasonable amount of PS fluid in the car (drain if needed, fill if needed) and then turn on the car. Once you have done this, try Jays method of pulling air out of the top of the system by the hard lines at the back passenger side of the motor. Possibility that I can just drain the system correctly, and refill it correctly, and be good to go? I ask, because I've apparently been filling it wrong ever since I fixed my two leaky clamps at the cooler.Close up your PS system and verify that you have no leaks, check the rack boots etc. That would also explain why no fluid came out of that line when I was turning the wheel lock-to-lock to drain it. That means when I was "filling" the system last night I was actually filling it with air, and pushing the fluid into the reservoir. (I don't know why it wouldn't be, but I find out new stuff about what the PO did every day) Okay, So assuming everything on my car is what you're describing. I just want this fixed, running, car washed, and my garage to look decent again. I'd love to not have to buy any more of this fluid.Īnything wrong with going to my local junkyard and grabbing a pump off of an all-road if the pump is bad? Just spent $50 on 2L of Pentosin 11S, and already wasted probably half a liter. Would it be better at all if I spin the pump by hand? To clarify, return line is the BIGGER line, with the clamp, right?Īny suggestions on how to do any of this while making the least mess possible?įront bumper is already off the car. He says you could do it with the engine off, but he does it with the engine on.įrom what I described, do any of you have any suggestions?.Every time you feel pressure on your thumb, have them pause, relieve pressure with thumb, put thumb back on hole, have them continue, and repeat this process.Have someone turn wheel slowly lock to lock.Hold thumb over hole in return line to give a resistance to the system.Remove return line, and cap return spot on resivoir.Fluid did the same thing as before, never really seemed to get sucked in like described, instead foamed, and spilled over when I turned the car off.Ĭalled my mechanic, and he suggested doing this:.Method was to leave everything connected, fill the resivoir, turn wheels lock to lock, then repeat with car on.Started over using third method I found.Fluid at first seemed to go down when turning the wheel, then ended up bubbling, and when you turn the car off it seems like all the fluid rushes back to the resivoir, and then it spills over.Turned on car to do the same thing, but with the car on.Topped off with fluid and turned wheel left and right.Disconnected the return hose from the resivoir.reconnected the line to use different method.Disconnected line from cooler, and turned wheels until no more fluid came out. ![]() The next thing I did was search how to bleed the system.
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